(Article written by Hon’ble Minister of State for Textiles Pabitra Margherita on the occasion of 11th #NationalHandloomDay)
Every August 7, National Handloom Day marks a moment that binds India’s past with its future thread by thread, story by story. The day commemorates the Swadeshi Movement of 1905, when handwoven fabric emerged not only as a piece of fabric but as a powerful symbol of resistance, self-reliance, and cultural identity. What began as a clean slate evolved into the warp and weft of heritage, art, and community expression.
The handloom sector today supports over 35 lakh weavers and allied workers, 72% of whom are women, across rural and semi-urban India. For all its richness, the sector now stands at one that demands innovation without dilution, technology without erasure, and modernization without marginalization.
An enduring heritage
The rich heritage of handloom weaving in India dates back to ancient civilizations of Harappa and Mohenjo-daro. Over the millennia, this craft flourished with each region developing its own grammar of weave, signature techniques, motifs, and meaning. From the golden glow of Assam’s Muga silk, to the famous Banarasi silk sarees; from Kashmir’s Pashmina to Tamil Nadu’s lustrous Kanjeevaram sarees, India’s handloom traditions are as diverse as its people.
In a weaver’s home, where the loom often shares space with the kitchen or a side “angan”, each saree or shawl is being prepared to communicate a one of a kind anecdote. With minimal technology, but maximal creativity, weavers convert yarns into heirlooms. The unstitched drape, so emblematic of Indian clothing, became a canvas for regional expression, rituals, and storytelling. To quote our Hon’ble Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi Ji, “Handlooms manifest India’s diversity and the dexterity of countless weavers and artisans.”
The North East: A loom of opportunity
The Northeast region houses around 52% of the total handloom workers of the country, with Assam leading the nation with over 12.83 lakh weavers and 12.46 lakh looms as per the 2019-20 Handloom Census. Sualkuchi, known as the “Manchester of Assam,” stands as a testament to traditional weaving excellence, while developing hubs like Machkhowa in Dhemaji district further boost the sector.
Recognizing its cultural significance, the government’s dedicated mission for the North East focuses on promoting tribal weaves, encouraging handloom tourism, facilitating exports, and training youth. This region is being positioned as a global design hub where natural fibers, ancient knowledge, and modern entrepreneurship converge.
Under the National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP), financial assistance has been extended to 123 Small Clusters in the North Eastern states. A Mega Handloom Cluster has been established in Sivasagar and two such projects are ongoing in Imphal East and Sualkuchi. Around 3.08 lakh weavers have enrolled for universal & affordable social security under Pradhan Mantri Jeevan Jyoti Beema Yojana (PMJJBY), and Pradhan Mantri Suraksha Beema Yojana (PMSBY) in the region, including 1.09 lakh from Assam.
From revival to resurgence
Over the last 11 years, India has witnessed a substantial revival in handloom practices, owing to a series of focused interventions from the Ministry of Textiles. Cluster development initiatives, modern tools, and access to credit have helped transform weaving from household activities into micro-enterprises.
The National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP) and Raw Material Supply Scheme (RMSS) have ensured end to end assistance ranging from yarn supply, loom upgradation, work sheds creation to providing access to modern equipment. Schemes like PMJJBY, and PMSBY provided much-needed financial and social safety nets. Concessional credit under Weaver’s MUDRA Scheme and margin money assistance have increased access to working capital.
In order to eradicate costs and enhance productivity for weavers and entrepreneurs, Handloom parks are planned to be set up across high-potential regions. These integrated spaces will incorporate dyeing units, plug-and-play workshops, digital labs, showrooms, and sustainability infrastructure like solar power and waste recycling.
At the same time, Design & Innovation Hubs are being set up at regional levels in partnership with NIFT, NID, and other design institutes, where designers and weavers co-create, preserve, and document the traditional essence of weaving, and archive cultural designs online. These interventions promise to level up both the aesthetic and commercial appeal of Indian handloom on a global scale.
Embracing technology is a must, but the soul of handloom must remain intact. AI is now used for trend forecasting and digital color selection, while blockchain ensures product traceability and combats counterfeiting ushering the sector into the new digital age responsibly.
Reimagining linkages: E-commerce and market access
Marketing and e-commerce will act as the game-changers. The strategy is simple but revolutionary: eliminate middlemen, enhance visibility through promotion, and connect weavers directly to platforms, exhibitions, and marketplaces on the first go. In line with this, handloom weavers are being onboarded on Government e-Marketplace (GeM) and indiahandmade.com is offering a transparent, zero commission platform ensuring fair remuneration, free shipping, easy returns, and secure payment options.
Complementing these efforts, as many as 106 handloom products have already been granted Geographical Indication (GI) tags, celebrating their unique regional heritage and craftsmanship. Together with the ‘Handloom Mark’ and ‘India Handloom Brand’, these measures strengthen the distinct identity of handwoven products, assuring buyers of their authenticity, quality, and eco-friendly nature.
Skill, security, and sustainability
Tomorrow rests on inclusive capacity building. Skill development programs for youth, particularly in preserving traditional techniques, are paired with financial and social security schemes- including health insurance, educational scholarships, and pension benefits for weavers.
Simultaneously, eco-friendly dyes, carbon-neutral production models, and lifecycle assessments reinforce the sector’s commitment to sustainability, aligning Indian handlooms with the global green movement.
The new report titled “Carbon Footprint Assessment in the Indian Handloom Sector: Methods and Case Studies”, conducted by IIT Delhi in collaboration with the Ministry of Textiles, serves as both a reference and a guidebook, paving the way for a more sustainable version of India.
By embedding environmental consciousness into traditional handloom practices, the study reinforces the Ministry of Textile’s commitment to the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). It also ensures that the handloom value chain is not only climate-resilient but also rooted in ethical production, equitable wages, and dignified livelihoods.
Looking forward: Sustain. Support. Scale.
The vision for India’s handloom sector is part cultural, part AI, and fully human. Ambitious targets include an export rise, creating new jobs, and providing digital literacy training for weavers across clusters. The future is grounded in three pillars; sustain the soul, support the maker & scale the reach.
Moving beyond wage labor, the sector aims to cultivate entrepreneurship with fellowships, startup grants, and incubation hubs, especially encouraging youth and women leaders. Branding, mentorship, and business development support will foster ownership-based enterprises that are both culturally authentic and commercially viable.
India’s handloom sector is ever evolving…
Handloom continues to be a key driver in our journey towards Viksit Bharat by 2047 while also preserving the cultural ethos of the country and ushering in sustainability and mindful consumption.
The journey from a tool of resistance to a beacon of innovation illustrates handloom’s timeless significance leaving an eternal footprint throughout the eons to come.
By weaving together heritage, innovation, and collective effort, India’s handloom sector stands poised to inspire the world while empowering millions at home. As envisioned by our Hon’ble Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi Ji “Let us make handlooms a key part of our daily lives & give our traditional handloom products the stature they merit”
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